Goulash: Adelphi, Aberdeen
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TUCKED away at the end of a quiet, Aberdeen lane lies a restaurant like no other.
The food is served up as though to an old friend – not a paying customer.
And all this by a man who must surely be one of the city’s most fascinating hosts. He’s certainly the most entertaining.
Welcome to Goulash – billed as Scotland’s only Hungarian restaurant and home to one Mr Zoltan Dragan.
Born in Hungary, he has been a resident in Scotland since jumping ship at Aberdeen Harbour in 1969, escaping his country’s communist regime.
But if its frills, airs and graces you are after, then think again.
Half the fun of going to Goulash is the theatrical experience of Zoltan’s company, which is constantly friendly, frequently eccentric, and entertaining to the last.
He gave us a detailed lesson on how to pronounce each of our dishes – no easy task.
I started with the hortobagy palacsinta – a minced chicken dish which came liberally doused in herbs and spices, and folded up into a pancake. The sauce was a spicy mix of paprika and cream, which seemed to make the pancake melt in my mouth. A delicious combination.
My friend opted for the easier-to-pronounce vegetable fritter balls – a simple dish of mushrooms and other vegetables, deep-fried with a side dish of mayonnaise.
Next I had the house specialty – beef porkolt – otherwise known as goulash. The tender meat was cooked to perfection, and each mouthful was bursting with flavour.
On hearing I liked spicy food, Zoltan brought me an extra-hot paprika mixture to add to my sauce – for added authenticity. A nice touch.
It came with some of the oddest-looking pasta I’d ever seen.
Mixed through with the beef and sauce, it was utterly scrumptious, and so filling I could barely finish my plateful.
My friend had lecsos szuzermek – a hearty dish of grilled lamb packed with spicy peppers and sauteed potatoes.
Just like Zoltan himself, the dishes at Goulash are unpretentious and full of heart.
We enjoyed a history lesson over dessert, delivered with his trademark enthusiasm.
Goulash is not a restaurant to go to for a quick bite to eat.
No this is a place where the atmosphere should be savoured, along with every mouthful.
For a three-course dinner you pay £16.95. With drinks our bill came to a reasonable £51.40.
