Zara’s: Allardice Street, Stonehaven
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RENOVATION work on buildings is not usually something that holds my interest.
But I was captivated by the comings and goings on Stonehaven’s main street in an empty space that housed one of the finest Thai eateries in the North-east a few years back.
So when the dust settled and a brand-spanking new Indian eatery was unveiled it was a foregone conclusion I’d end up there.
Zara’s isn’t so much a facelift as a transformation. It’s on two levels, with a mezzanine floor above the old wooden beams in a huge airy space dominated by a glittering chandelier. Classy.
The menu reinforced the good vibes. Helpfully divvied up into hot, mild and medium dishes, it featured new and interesting curries as well as household names.
Our friendly waiter eventually took our order – service was not swift, but let’s put that down to a busy Saturday night for a new-ish venture.
My beloved, my loon and I decided to make a joint attack on the starters, with a vegetable pakora (£2.95) and a meat platter (£4.95), a mix of kebabs, tikkas and tandoori prawns.
Pakora is always the benchmark of an Indian kitchen and this offering was outstanding. Crisp, grease-free and full of veg.
The meaty dish was also a success – you could tell by the exact sharing of portions.
There followed a long wait for the mains – there’s that service thing again – but it was worth it.
The boy had stepped out of his usual korma mode to indulge in a Zara’s special mixed biryani (£10.95) chock-full of barbecued chicken, lamb and king prawn.
The accompanying vegetable curry was slightly fierce for his taste buds, but he loved the richness of this filling and tasty dish.
My beloved had gone the trad route with a chicken pathia (£6.95). Billed as hot, sweet and sour in equal measure, this gave off a heavenly aroma that had everyone salivating.
The huge chunks of tender chicken were a delight and the sauce was a zinging marvel. Maybe a touch too zingy for some, though, as the hot part of the equation outweighed the sweet and the sour. But for fans of food that bites back – me – it was simply superb.
My own choice was the special chana chicken (£9.95). Chunks of onion, superb nutty, firm chick peas and tender breast meat, came in a sauce that just sang with fragrant spices, delivering a melody of both musky and sharp notes.
Not too hot, not too sweet, not too sour. Perfect – especially with the pilau rice and garlic naan.
Welcome to Stoney, Zara’s, and ta for bringing some fantastic Indian cuisine to the town.
