Chao Phraya: Salvesen Tower, Blaikies Quay, Aberdeen

By Gareth Alexander

Published: 06/01/2012

I FEEL Thai cuisine often gets short shrift, being seen as the poor cousin to Indian or Chinese food.

To test this entirely made-up theory and blatant excuse not to cook, I ordered one in.

The meal started as it meant to go on, with an impeccable moo yang (£3.80).

Four large skewers of soft, moist pork were marinated in garlic, but with a salty chilli sauce.

I usually prefer my curries thick, but a beef gaeng pa (£5), or jungle curry, packed a fiery punch despite its wateriness and was heavy on the ginger and thai basil.

I made a miss-step with the guey teow (£2.80), as, although the flat rice noodles were tasty, the dish was the blandest of the bunch and the curry desperately needed rice to soak it up.

Finally, a side of phad pak kaew (£3.50) provided a rich, savoury counterpoint to the fragrant curry. Iron-rich green veg was stir fried with oyster sauce, soya bean and garlic for a heady and addictive dish.

It may be the underdog in the takeaway race, but this Thai suits me fine.

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