Cafe 52: The Green, Aberdeen

By Jennifer McKiernan

Published: 11/11/2011

YOU just have to follow your nose to find Cafe 52, which wafts out fragrant spices through its bamboo-filled courtyard.

My flatmate and I headed down on a Thursday night, both tired after work and looking to relax.

We were seated in the window in an intimate corner next to a bronzed brick wall with a lovely view of greenery. The waiters immediately put us at ease with a friendly welcome and chatted away before leaving us to study the diverse menu.

Drinks were first priority and I picked an interesting looking red – Juan Gil Monastrell Monastrell – promising hints of coffee, chocolate and blackberries, which unusually lived up to the poetic description with a satisfyingly full and complex taste.

Feeling gluttonous, we decided to forget about separate starters (although I had my eye on the tartlet of spinach, walnuts, Jerusalem artichokes and Dunsyre blue cheese) and go all out with the antipasto sharing platter.

Served on a slab of black slate, we were taken aback by a mountain of bread, thick slices of meat, salad, houmous, chutney, a fish pate, olives and cheese.

Having wolfed our way through the hefty plateful, we felt slightly ashamed, although not nearly enough to refrain from ordering mains.

I had been daydreaming all day about the Moroccan blade of beef, slow-cooked in red wine and Shiitake mushrooms, served with chermoula and confit lemon.

The balance of sweet and savoury flavours might not seem an obvious partner for shiitake mushrooms, but the experiment worked.

The beef was dark and tender, the burgundy sauce was luxurious and the lemon cut through with a sweet and sour bite. This was also my first taste of chermoula, a Moroccan marinade, and I will be attempting to recreate a version at home as it was utterly delicious.

I'm fairly sure the chermoula was at least one part of the enticing smell that first attracted my attention to the restaurant.

Chris went for the fish pie made with smoked haddock, red onion and leek and served alongside truffle mashed potato.

I know the waiter brought this dish to the table but I could not tell you exactly what happened after that – the next thing I saw the plate was practically licked clean and my flatmate was grinning contentedly across the table.

He murmured something about it being very tasty and definitely being willing to order it again, though.

We also ordered parsnips cooked with sea salt and honey and a portion of homemade chips and both were great for mopping up the sauces.

Finishing off our wine gave us a chance to talk as the waiters invited us to make ourselves at home and not to rush off, despite the fact neither of us had any room left for dessert.

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