The Old Mill Inn: Maryculter
By Gareth Alexander
Published: 21/10/2011
THERE comes a time in everyone’s mid-20s when they have a third-life crisis and rebel, doing things different just for the sake of it (albeit in the most mundane way possible).
That’s what led me to throw caution to the wind and have a Sunday roast on a Tuesday. Yes, that is what passes for rebellion in my life.
Stepping into the warm, welcoming Old Mill Inn felt like a hug with a roaring log fire keeping the grey autumn night at bay. Black pudding in filo pastry (£5.20) started the meal off excellently, with an apple puree giving it an unusual, but by no means unpleasant, sharpness.
A bowl of cream of potato soup (£3.90) was creamy and had delicate flavours, with hints of onion and pepper. It had the perfect texture too – velvety and smooth.
Lamb cutlets (£14.50) were tender, succulent and juicy. I was curious about my friend’s fondant potato, which, while soft and fluffy, was perhaps a bit too much like a baked potato. It was an absolutely delicious dish, but could have done with a jus or sauce. The only fault I could find with my main of beef, veg and mash (£11.90) was that it was roast, rather than braised beef as advertised. But when you have perfectly al-dente veg, smooth horseradish mash and a homemade Yorkshire pudding, you tend to overlook these things.
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