Udny Arms Hotel: Main Street, Newburgh

NOT so long ago, a trip to the Udny Arms in Newburgh was likely to be due to its reputation as the birthplace of sticky toffee pudding.

But, since Gary Linney took over a matter of months ago, there have been some rather momentous goings on – not least the restaurant securing two AA rosettes.

So there was more than pudding in mind as myself, my wife and mum headed out for a spot of dinner.

The hotel’s decor is showing little sign of Gary’s renovation plans, but inside, former Malmaison chef Mark Pollack has transformed the menu.

We ditched starters to go straight for main courses. I had one of those proper meat-mountain hamburgers, cooked to perfection with amazing French fries (£9.95). My mum opted for fish, chips and mushy peas (£8.95) with the lightest, crispest beer batter, while my wife polished off a huge baked salted cod in a clam chowder with flaky puff pastry top (£10.95) – a portion big enough to feed a family! Packed with flavour, it was pub grub with a difference, boasting presentation to match the finest gastropubs. I’m pleased to report the sticky toffee pudding (£4.50) ain’t too bad either.