Society BAR: Union Street, Aberdeen

BRANDING is everything. Society Bar and Restaurant, to give it the long title, shortens itself to the rather smart Society BAR in screaming capitals (see what they did there?).

I decided to try the food. Or, in their world, I suppose, the Society R for restaurant.

A chicken liver pate, which came in a plentiful portion – especially for a starter – was certainly rich. Granted, it was a bit too loose – and the berry compote slightly too acidic. But, eaten simply with the oatcakes, it was satisfying.

And my girlfriend’s smoked salmon starter was set off very well by slightly salty capers and, happily, lots of bread.

The mains, while huge, were also a little bit of a mixed bag. The menu promised chicken coated in Cajun spices. What I got, however, was a wonderfully moist piece of chicken – but lacking spice.

The griddle gave it a great smokey taste, but when I hear Cajun, I want a punch in the face, not a tickle with a feather duster. It was helped by a sweet salsa, sour cream and piles of seasoned wedges.

Our other main, macaroni and cheese, was a steaming-hot bowl of warming goodness. Salty bacon did well to season it, even if the pasta was a touch overdone. With some garlic bread, it certainly did the job.