210 Bistro: Market Street, Aberdeen

By Ewan Cameron

Published: 11/06/2010

WHOEVER said “location, location, location” (Phil or Kirsty I think) has obviously never been to 210 Bistro.

Sitting on traffic-clogged Market Street and with a view that overlooks Aberdeen Harbour and industrial buildings, first impressions of the restaurant are eyebrow-raising to say the least.

But step inside 210 Bistro and you’re immediately transported to a sleek and modern eatery that wouldn’t look out of place in the West End (just avert your eyes from the windows as the HGVs thunder past).

After we took our seats in a plush booth at the back of the dining room, the waitress handed us menus that were as modern as the surroundings.

To start I had king scallops, with sweet pea and cumin puree and coriander dressing (£6.95).

The beautifully-seared scallops were full of flavour and really shone alongside the Moroccan-tinged puree. My wife went for the

smoked duck, beetroot and caramelised apple salad in a honey and wholegrain mustard dressing (£5.25).

She enjoyed the combination of smoky and fresh flavours, although when she gave me a bit I thought it tasted a tad like a ham sandwich.

My main course of roast chump of lamb, celeriac and parsnip champ and a pomegranate and thyme jus (£14.95) smelled as mouth-watering as it looked.

Aside from the melt-in-the-mouth lamb, the star of the plate was the twice-baked potatoes.

Crispy on the outside, light and fluffy inside, these were the Rolls Royce of baked tatties and were perfect for sopping up the delicious sauce.

Across the table, my wife was tucking into her pan-fried fillet of sea bass with garlic mash potatoes, provençal vegetables and tomato coulis (£15.95).

With its crispy, salty skin and delicate, flaky flesh, the fish was clearly cooked with love and care although the provençal vegetables and tomato coulis were on the wrong side of okay.

We finished the meal with a tangy lemon tart (£4.25) and belly-bustingly rich chocolate brownie (£4.25) and reminded ourselves that you can’t judge a book by its cover.

What 210 Bistro lacks in location it more than makes up for in quality of food.

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