Cafe Boheme: Windmill Brae, Aberdeen

By Gareth Alexander

Published: 06/11/2009

WHEN I order, say, a curry, I don’t really expect to see Peking duck on the menu.

Similarly, if I went to a chipper, I’d be a little worried if there was a chicken tikka masala up for grabs.

So I got a shock to see items like lamb with laver bread risotto and five-spice duck with peanut noodles on the menu of a seemingly French restaurant.

But my nerves were soothed when I tried a fantastic moreish, garlicky olive tapenade as a pre-dinner warm up.

My partner in crime and I liked it so much, we joked about trowelling it on a baguette and – to be honest – that would have satisfied me.

For starters, my accomplice and I decided to play it safe, me with a ham hock terrine, while he chose asparagus and quail’s egg (£5.95 each).

The terrine was rugged, rich and rewarding. Sweet leeks and spiky mustard dressing balanced the smokiness of the well-seasoned pork perfectly. All discussion stopped as my mate tucked into his very tender – if out of season – asparagus and accurately-cooked quail’s egg (not an easy task). Served with an asparagus mayo, it was fresh-tasting and satisfying.

For mains, I decided on the special – roast guinea fowl (£13.95). The mildly gamey meat was incredibly moist with the turnip crisps and turnip puree finishing off the autumnal dish.

Unfortunately, the wrong meal was served to my friend, the worrying five-spice duck on peanut noodles (£14.95) rather than his order of belly pork. Still, one look at the duck and he decided to stick with what he had – “the most perfectly cooked duck I’ve ever eaten”. He did, however, complain the noodles were a little slimy but enjoyed the spicing of the sauce.

Still, with potatoes, carrots and red cabbage, he had plenty to eat instead.

Both desserts, at £6.95 each, were a hit. An excellent creme brulee, made with real vanilla, was served with shortbread and a refreshing raspberry sorbet.

And a trio of desserts, a light, crumbly pistachio pie, dense and indulgent dark chocolate parfait and hot chocolate shot with Grand Marnier equally hit the spot.

With friendly and attentive staff – despite the slip-up – Cafe Boheme serves up great dishes and is certainly not afraid to stray from the norm.

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