Sopranos: Guild Street, Aberdeen

By Marie-Claire Jones

Published: 25/09/2009

I’VE got a confession to make – I’ve never even seen The Sopranos.

Before you start – I know. It’s brilliant. I believe you.

But I missed the first episode and never got round to catching up.

Of course this means that when I announced I was off to Sopranos for dinner, I missed all my friends’ clever references.

“Watch it – I hear that place gets MOBBED,” and the like.

So off I went expecting a full-on Italian experience and pasta dishes just like mama used to make. But Aberdeen’s own Sopranos has a lot more besides.

For a start this is not simply an Italian – its menu casts a net much further across the Med and is packed with tantalising combinations of fresh fish.

And its furnishings are all modern and comfortable – none of your themed restaurant tat. It’s all quirky mosaics and luxury chandeliers. My dining partner and I also laid claim to the most romantic table in the restaurant – in a wee nook in the window with curtains to close off the other diners (we kept them open – we’re just friends). But my mates had been right about one thing. The place really was mobbed. So much so that when a waitress came to see if we were quite happy with everything, we hadn’t actually received anything yet!

We had to wait a little over half an hour before our food arrived but there was a very big table to be seen to first.

And there was the added treat of some live music in the background as we settled in for the evening.

I enjoyed my starter of king prawns which came marinated in ginger, garlic and chilli (£5.50). The prawns were nice and plump and full of flavour – but I could have done with another couple. My friend’s scallops (£7.50) were fine enough, presented on a minted pea puree and pancetta. But while he didn’t rave about his first course, he did the second. His sea bass was perfectly cooked and presented atop a bed of sunblush tomato and parmesan mash (£13.95).

And I’m glad I enjoy spicy food, for my crab and chilli fishcake (£8.50) was hot hot hot!

It was nice and crispy while the contents were fluffy. My only grumble was the drizzling of everything in balsamic – featuring on both main courses and my starter, it lost its charm for us. The desserts were both superb – a towering strawberry cheesecake for him (£4.50) and a delicious hazelnut creme brulee for me (£4.50). Special mention to the staff who were friendly, attentive and lovely all night, even under pressure.

For three courses each plus drinks it cost £57.40.

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