Cinnamon: Union Street, Aberdeen

By Gareth Alexander

Published: 31/07/2009

GOING green seems to be all the rage at the moment.

Celebrities, politicians, everyone is trying to show off their green credentials.

And I found myself having a green time of it in Cinnamon – both on purpose and totally by accident.

You see, after the complimentary and rather delicious poppadom and dips came my starter, the hara thika kebab (£5.95). And surprisingly, as well as being light and tasty, it was bright green.

Chunks of lamb and chicken, with the delicate and fresh flavours of lemon, lime and mint had been passed over charcoal for an added smoky layer to the subtle spicing. It was a dish I’d never encountered before, and was very understated, but it certainly left me satisfied.

My partner in crime went the more traditional route, with two huge onion bhajia (£3.45), an incredibly generous starter portion. They were duly demolished by us both – I had to help her, I’m chivalrous like that – and I was astonished at how light they were. No dense chickpea flour stodge here, just crispy batter and slightly caramelised onions, accompanied by a tangy tomato sauce.

More green came with my main, in the shape of the burnt green curry (£9.95). The burnt spinach added a real depth of flavour to the truly lip-smacking sauce. Slightly bitter notes gave way to a strong and rich sauce.

And as a heat fiend, I couldn’t resist taking the menu up on its offer of adding extra fresh green chilli for an eye-watering kick.

And sticking with the classic theme, my girlfriend picked a chicken dansak (£7.95). While slightly too hot for her – and a little too mild for me – we both loved the mix of sweet and sour flavours of the thick gravy. The balance of tastes was close to perfect, neither sickly nor too sharp, and that’s no mean feat.

A great curry is all very well, but falls down if the side orders are sub-standard. A pilau rice (£2.95) did the job very well, but the garlic naan (£3.10) was stunning. It was as light as a cloud while being crispy. Garlic and ghee heavy, it became almost impossible to put down.

With drinks, the bill stood at a very eco-friendly (economy-friendly, that is) £46.95.

And that’s why I’d recommend everyone go green – and to Cinnamon.

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