Pizza Express: Union Street, Aberdeen

By Scott Begbie

Published: 17/07/2009

A FUNNY thing happened on our way for a curry ... it turned into a pizza instead.

Finding no room at the inn for our first choice, we fell back on this ever-popular and always welcoming eatery on the corner of Summer Street for a bite to eat.

Mind you, it was a close run thing seeing as it was packed to the rafters.

But a friendly waitress took our names, had us come back 15 minutes later – via a trip to a local hostelry – and we were shown straight to our table.

Funnily enough, for all that the place was jumping, there was still a calm, laid-back – but extremely efficient – air about the place.

Now, the menu at Pizza Express is an ever-changing, always evolving affair, so it always requires a close read – even if you do end up back with old favourites.

I mean, who can resist a porcini mushroom risotto (£4.95) for a starter? Not me, that’s for sure, especially since my recent attempt to make one gave me a renewed respect for the labour of love involved in ladling stock and stirring rice for the better part of an hour.

Pizza Express’ version is a masterclass in how to make a rich, creamy, savoury dish guaranteed to make you go “mmmm” on the first mouthful, then keep digging in until the moreish, gooey plateful is gone.

Mrs B and I have similar tastes in pizza bases – that deep pan stuff is the devil’s work.

Romana pizzas, though, are as thin as a thin thing and delicious to boot.

Still craving some spice, I decided the Etna (£9.65) would do the trick, with its promise of hot Calabrian salami, roquito peppers and smoked speck ham.

It delivered the big fiery attack I was looking for, leaving my mouth tingling, with a riot of flavours and textures delivered on a base that was light and delicate.

Meanwhile, Mrs B was nodding and yumming over her Pollo Panceta (£9.65).

It was heaped with the tenderest chicken breast, smokiest pancetta and soft, sweet roasted yellow peppers.

Using a pepperonata sauce base – made with red and yellow peppers instead of tomato – lifted this into a league of its own.

Not that I’ll know unless I go back, because Mrs B wasn’t sending any across to my side of the table.

Now, I don’t know about you, but often I resent the cost of a pizza.

It can fairly mount up for what is, essentially, some dough and a bit of topping.

But this feast was worth every single penny of the total bill – £32.75, including a Peroni and a low-alcohol lager.

Hot stuff, indeed.

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