ONE of the great joys of trying out a new restaurant is the anticipation of what it’s going to be like.
Will the food be any good, the service friendly or slow, the atmosphere relaxed or dull?
I like the whole mystery ... but feeling mystified was a new one on me.
And that’s how I felt when confronted by the menu for the Spice Dabba. But don’t worry, that’s a good thing.
It means that this Indian restaurant – an elegant, airy eatery overlooking the Denburn valley – is unlike any other in the city, one that can have even a seasoned curry hand like me scratching my head and thinking “What’s that, then?”
I mean vada ... isn’t that the baddie from Star Wars? Dosa? Dose of what?
Fortunately the menu does explain. Vadas are savoury doughnuts for dunking, and dosas are Indian crepes.
So, Mrs B and I decided to venture out on this magical mystery tour with a shared starter of kaima cutlet (£3.99), billed as finely-minced lamb, coated in breadcrumbs and then deep fried.
What arrived was a bowl of what looked like mini savoury eggs. One bite yielded something that was not unlike a haggis ball – until the fiery spice kicked in. It was nothing like I had tasted before ... but superb.
On to the mains and a return to at least one familiar dish ... chicken biryani (£6.99) Well, familiar at first glance.
Yup, it’s chicken and rice with a sauce to pour over. But then we were off into new frontiers again.
This was a riot of fresh and fragrant herbs, with mint undertones giving way to fiery chilli and sour casia bark. It was how I imagine Indian home-cooking would be, filling, soul food that keeps you coming back for more.
We had also decided to give the chicken masala dosa (£5.99) a whirl. The crepe was light and, in places, crispy, with bits to break off and dip in a spicy sambar sauce and creamy coconut chutney.
Again, the chicken masala was like nothing I’d seen before. This was closer to a chicken and potato stew, rich with spices that had sharp notes to lift the melt-in-the-mouth tatties and chicken.
By the time we were finished, Mrs B and I were more familiar with what Spice Dabba is all about – and converted. Especially as our dinner, plus a beer, checked in at just over £20.
We’re heading back soon – even if just to let me try out the uthappam. I’m not telling, you’ll have to find out for yourself.