The Fife Arms Hotel: The Square, Turriff

Can there be any finer place in the world on a lovely day than Cullen?

A brisk walk in the gleaming sunshine on the pristine beach as the turquoise waves lap along the shore. Who needs the Med when the sun is shining?

When Alison and Herbert Cox owned the Seafield Arms in Cullen, there was no finer way to end the day than with dinner at that wonderful hotel. They know how to make a place tick. Now they’ve moved on and Turriff is their culinary homeland.

Herbert and Alison have taken the Fife Arms and turned it into a dining delight. It wasn’t that long ago that this old staging inn was hosting farmers’ meetings with buckets to catch drips from the bar ceiling.

Now it’s a light, airy bistro with a simple, but warm and welcoming feel with service at a canter.

But what to have? Mussels in Thai sauce? Smoked haddock risotto with a poached egg? Scallops atop guacamole, chilli and coriander? Well, we had all three among us. Or almost. As I fancied a Thai red chicken curry for my main course, Cherry – who led the waiting team – suggested substituting the Thai sauce on the mussels for a white wine and garlic sauce. She was spot on. A whopping plate of mussels dripping in garlic sauce – costing just £5.75 – hit the table. My in-laws snaffled their seared scallops (£7.50) in a jiffy and my wife demolished her risotto almost before I had chance to have a try. A touch of crunch in the rice but plenty of liquor and that heady, smoky flavour of the haddock – a snip at £5.75.

There was no way I could finish the mussels and everyone was compelled to have a handful.

Me and ma-in-law had the red Thai chicken curry with jasmine rice (£10.95). The sauce had a delicate heat and surprising sweetness.

My wife and her dad had the sea bass and it was gone in a flash with hearty praise – a special of the day at £14.95.

There was water galore on our table and a bottle of Chilean red and then we slumped into the comfy armchairs out front to slurp through coffees. No rush, no fuss, no chasing us to pay the bill – which came in at a tad over £100 for the four of us. It was worth every penny.

Herbert and Alison have notched up another winner.