White Horse Hotel and Restaurant: Strichen

By David Ewen

Published: 15/05/2009

STRICHEN is not the fanciest of places. Lying somewhere between the sea and the hills, it lacks the drama of a coastal town or the picturesque setting of those further inland.

But its inhabitants, past and present, are far from unspectacular. It’s here that the country’s leader Alex Salmond lives.

My wife had come to research local lass Lorna Moon, who made it big as a Hollywood writer after berating the work of Cecil B DeMille and being invited to do better. By the time she finished, The White Horse Hotel and Restaurant was opening its doors.

The restaurant feels very much like somebody’s front room.

Our young waiter Sean showed us to a table next to a fish tank.

I suspect Gordon Ramsay might have wanted to rip it out along with the patterned carpet.

But you could view it as homely, right down to carnations on the table and the big floppy dog that had greeted us on arrival.

If the decor was less than exciting , the menu verged on the outlandish.

How does venison served with a red wine, bramble, red currant, chilli and chocolate sauce sound? Or salmon stuffed with ginger, mushrooms and shallots?

My wife was seduced by the sound of two special starters – mozzarella wrapped in parma ham and pan fried (£4.50), and garlic mushrooms (£3.95) in a white wine sauce.

Both drew coos of delight.

I was tempted by oven-baked snapper – another special – but went for the local fish.

A smoked St Combs haddock (£10.75), served with a poached egg and hollandaise sauce, potatoes, mash, broccoli and carrots.

The haddock was a decent size but a shade too salty for my taste.

A range of “home-made” desserts were available and again, there was plenty to entice. Jamaican bananas, for example, baked with rum and spices, and sticky chocolate – yes, chocolate – pudding. But, already well fed, we passed.

The menu might have belonged in a city brasserie but the drinks bill was pure Strichen – £2.40 for a red wine, £1.10 for a sparkling water, £1.05 for a coffee and £2.70 for a Drambuie coffee.

The meal came to £26.45.

The White Horse caters for kids with main courses costing £4.50.

Young Sean showed us out, having inquired after every course if the food was to our satisfaction. We’re happy to report that it was.

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