I DON’T know what it’s like to be snow-blind, but after eating at Restaurant 21, I now have some idea.
This place is white. Very white.
I was reminded of the quote from Curb Your Enthusiasm’s Larry David, who said that only two types of people wear sunglasses indoors – blind people and morons.
I felt like adding another category – Restaurant 21 customers.
It was a bit like stepping into a Dulux commercial.
Actually, once my eyes became accustomed to the white, I grew to appreciate the sleek modern decor. It’s certainly like no other restaurant in Aberdeen, and that’s no bad thing.
I started with a dish from the specials board – sweet cured sirloin of beef with parmesan shavings and marmalade syrup (£5.75).
The combination of soft, tender meat, salty cheese and sweet drizzle was a taste and texture clash with only one winner – my tastebuds.
My fiancee was almost as appreciative of her roast plum tomato and manchego cheese basil puff pastry tart with sweet pickled red onion (£5.25).
It was a healthy-sized portion and if the pastry had been a bit flakier, it might not have seemed so filling.
I had no such problem with my main course of peppered loin of pork with apple compote, fondant potato and green beans (£12.25).
The fact that the pork stayed moist shows the care and attention being heaped upon the food.
The chunky compote and cider reduction added sweetness, without making me think I was eating a dessert.
“I chose right,” came the words from across the table as she ate her roast sea bass with parsnip puree, spinach and roasted garlic and wild mushroom sauce (£15.75).
I was afforded a taste and she was bang on. The crispy-skinned fish was cooked perfectly, the sauce was deep and rich and the sweet, earthy parsnip puree gave the wintry dish added zing.
I finished my meal with a poached pear and stem ginger crumble with milk chocolate ice cream (£4.50).
Cut through with a healthy kick of cinnamon, it was the perfect way to warm my cockles before heading out into the freezing night.
In this current financial climate it takes a brave soul to open a new upmarket restaurant.
But on the evidence of tonight, Restaurant 21 should have no problems weathering the storm.